Wine Reviews

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Those other white wines Pt. 1


OK. We have all been in wine stores where there are seemingly endless rows of chardonnay, pinot grigio/gris, sauvignon blanc and sometimes even riesling. And then there is a section called something like "other grapes" or "other wines." Sounds like the title of a bad science fiction movie, like 'The Other Grape That Crushed LA." But what is really among these others, those that seem to be perpetual outcasts from polite society?

Well, one of them is Torrentes, grown primarily in Argentina. It is a notable grape in several regions-Catamarca, La Rioja, Mendoza, Salta, San Juan and Rio Negro. There are some stylistic variations between the different regions, Catamarca tending towards a more full bodied and intensely aromatic style, while those of Mendoza are a bit more reticent on the nose and palette. With these variations the wine still shows its personality well.

The origin of the grape points towards Galicia, that most northwesterly province in Spain. The area derives its name and distinctive language or dialect, depending who you talk to, from ancestral roots in ancient Gaul; hence the name Galicia. This area is known as the green area due to its abundant rainfall and is home to the wines made from albarino grapes and other less well know local varieties.

It is an aromatic white, keeping company with the likes of riesling, albarino and gewurtztraminer. With floral and dark tree fruit aromas, good acidity and ripe peaches, apricots and some honey on the palette, this wine has much to offer.

The acid makes it food friendly and able to hold its own with a variety of dishes such as steamed snapper with mango/peach salsa or roast game hen with rosemary and lemon. It is not a wine that does well with a heavy char from the grill as it takes on a bitterness that catches in the back of the throat.

The aromas and flavors make it a great hot weather wine for sipping or taking on picnics or out on the back deck. The acidity makes all the difference, and is one of the characteristics I like about the aromatics in general. The ripe fruits and crisp acidity are a wonderful combination.

Prices for most offerings are modest to moderate, mostly in the $10-$15 range. If you are not familiar with this wine, go get some and try it well chilled.

To paraphrase a famous saying, "Yes, Virginia, there is life beyond chardonnay."

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