Sunday, June 13, 2010

Wines of the Times

Having ignored the blog for quite some time, it is time to get going again. The past almost two years I was occupied with writing a book on American cuisine. It looks like it will be published later this year, so before I get going on another one I need to catch up here.

Sometime during the last quarter of 2009 I made my own little wine database. I know a lot about wine but realized that with all the tasting I did, I soon forgot most of what I discovered while attending a tasting. I was surprised after a few weeks to discover where "my" wines were coming from. The last several years the wines I bought for home consumption were mostly from the USA. And I did record a fair number in the data base. What I found interesting was the large number from Spain, and not just Rioja.

Spain led the way with 17 wines: regions were Pendes, Ribera del Duero, Carinena, Rias Baixas, Yecla. Ribera del Duero, Jumilla, Montsant, Valencia, Rueda and Rioja. What most impressed my about these wines is the overall high quality of the wines, region to region and varietal to varietal. When coupled with really reasonable prices it becomes apparent that the price/value relationship is high. The perceived value is outstanding. This is one of the concepts that gets a great deal of attention on teaching about cost control in the food service industry. Without fail, the consistency of perceived value led me purchase one Spanish wine after another and was never disappointed with any of the wines.

Surprises were the freshness and refinement of white wines made in Rias Baixas and Rioja Alta. The Rioja was new to me and the viura grape produced a crisp, refreshing, orange and almond scented wine of great charm. All of the reds ranging from tempranillo to garnacha displayed juicy red and dark fruits with a touch of oak and a distinct impression of a sense of place. Monastrell was large and full bodied but not overpowering. The tinta roriz, which is the local name in Rubera del Duero for tempranillo, was more full bodied and silky than the wines made in Rioja; not necessarily better, but quite distinct.

And the sparkling wine Cava was uniformly excellent. Here my personal preference is for wines made from the classic native Spanish grape (parelladda, macabeo, xarel-lo) rather than ones made with the addition of chardonnay. Who needs another chardonnay for a sparkling wine when the native varieties propduce such crisp and nuanced wines?

These are definitely wines to try for summer tie, whether the crisp whites to alleviate the hot and humid Atlanta weather, or the wide variety of reds for enjoying with slabs of grilled beast on the backyard grill.

Have fun and don't forget to write!

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