Sunday, January 13, 2008

TTB Strikes Again

As many of you know the task of assigning appellation names in the US is the responsibility of TTB-Tobacco and Tax Bureau. In addition to having the "wrong" government agency in charge of this task, this agency has gone back on its own stated principals and rules at the behest of some well connected and extremely prosperous wine companies.

The issue is the use of Calistoga as an appellation name with the requirements as set forth by the TTB itself in the naming of such regions. The companies involved are misleading consumers by implying that their wines come from Calistoga in Napa Valley. There is an 85% rule that says if a specific region and vintage appear on a label then 85% of the grapes used for that wine must come from that region and vintage. A couple of companies decided not to abide by the rules the TTB established.

The TTB also built in an exception clause stating that if the brand was established before 1986 then the name could remain. Both of these companies were started after this rule went into effect and chose to ignore the rule. Now they say that by enforcing the rule TTB set forth that they would suffer economic hardship and, incredibly, TTB is seriously considering theior pitiful plea.

There was a public comment period before a final determination was to be made.

So what we have is a government agency whose job it is to establish PLACE names for the origin of wines saying, in effect, "Well, we really did not mean what we said and all you wineries who chose to abide by the law, goody for you. But these guys have lots of money so we'll make an exception to the exception that they knew about when they established their brand names and let them call their wines by whatever geographical name they want because we will not enforce our own rules especially when these guys are well connected here in Washington and Sonoma County."

Do some leg work to find out what that last comment meant.

If TTB ignores their own rules the entire validity of the AVA system comes into question. There will in effect be no viable national standards for origin of wines. In an industry where, around the world, people are seeking a sense of place in their wines and other food products, we have a Federal agency populated by political appointees negating this movement by consumers everywhere.

It is reprehensible to me to have the very agency responsible for integrity in the source of wines show such appalling disregard for honesty and their own established rules.

Shame.

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